Buying a safe is one of those purchases where getting it wrong is expensive twice over — once for the safe itself, and again when you have to replace it because it wasn't actually right for what you needed. Here's how to work through the decision properly.
1. Start with what you're protecting, not the safe
The safe itself is the easy part. The harder question is: what exactly are you storing, and what's it worth? A £2,000 jewellery collection needs different protection to £30,000 of business cash takings, and insurers rate safes specifically for cash versus valuables — usually valuables cover is 10x the cash rating, since valuables are harder for a thief to convert to money quickly.
Add it up honestly, including anything you might store in future (passports, watches, a second set of car keys), and work from that figure rather than the size of the safe.
2. Check your insurer's requirements before you buy
Many home and business insurance policies specify a minimum security rating for any single item, or total value, kept in a safe. This is usually expressed as a European standard (EN14450 for lower ratings, EN1143-1 Grade 0 upwards for higher ones) or a cash/valuables cover figure in pounds. Call your insurer first — buying a safe that doesn't meet their requirement means you're not actually covered, whatever the safe cost.
3. Decide if you need fire protection too
Security safes and fire safes are tested differently and do different jobs. A security-rated safe resists physical attack (drilling, prying, cutting) but won't necessarily survive a house fire. A fire safe protects paper, and sometimes digital media, from heat and smoke damage, but often has lighter-duty locking than a dedicated security safe. If you're storing irreplaceable documents (property deeds, passports, family photos) alongside valuables, look at combined fire and security rated ranges rather than treating it as an either/or.
4. Think about where it's actually going
Measure the space before you shop, not after. Check door widths and any stairs or corridors the safe needs to pass through — heavier safes (100kg+) often need dedicated delivery and positioning services, and some simply won't fit through a standard doorway once boxed. If you're planning to bolt it to a floor or wall, check what's underneath — a suspended timber floor needs different fixings to solid concrete.
5. Pick a locking type that matches how you'll actually use it
Key locks are simple and need no batteries, but you have to keep the key somewhere safe (and different from where the safe is). Electronic locks are quick to use and let you change the code, but need battery maintenance. Fingerprint locks are the fastest for frequent access but cost more. If several people need access, or you want an audit trail of who opened it and when, electronic is usually the better fit.
The short version
Work out what you're protecting and its value, check what your insurer actually requires, decide whether fire protection matters for your situation, measure your space and access route, and pick a lock type that suits how often you'll use it. Get those five things right and the specific model becomes a much easier choice.
Still not sure which safe fits your situation? Get in touch and we'll help you work it out before you buy.
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